Discussion in 'Off Topic Chat' started by robbieray, Jan 3, 2017.
That'd be brillaint!
Thanks.....Searching for one now !
Hmmm heard good things about the petrol models and one in ten cars on the road seem to be an focus so thought they can't be that bad !! Taking your advice on board tho....
The so-called "voice-controlled" thing never worked properly. I would spend ages trying to get it to do what I wanted i.e. play a track off a USB or CD or use the hands-free phone, but it never worked right.
In the cold weather the whole car would be dripping wet on the inside, and I mean DRIPPING wet! Everywhere was soaked!
And the other main thing was the rubber door seal. Both front door seals came adrift because of the bloody useless glue or bonding that Ford used. Consequently, I would be driving round with a long piece of rubber flapping away from the bottom of my door! And it wasn't just me. I've noticed loads of Focus's around with the seal hanging down! I HATED that car!!
Does it work properly on *any* car more than a couple of years old?
The whole voice control thing is a bit of a fad, it's good for the day you get it but then its easier to just do things manually.
Always end up arguing with it.
Same with things like the PS4, easier to just use the controller.
To be honest, the older diesel Ford's are bulletproof - the Endura engine is a peerless 'go all day' engine. I've had two diesel Focuses, one Y-reg and one 04 plate, both were workhorses and rarely let me down. Saying that, my latest Focus is off the road with a major PS/Crankshaft obliteration issue...
If you want a workhorse of a car, get a diesel Ford. Make sure the timing belt, PS belt and drivebelt are all in order though, seriously.
Right, stupid question alert here, lads.
Bear with me - I've only ever owned diesel cars, and the fuel consumption on them was pretty minimal, but since owning the petrol 206 I got a week or so ago, I've noticed it's a bit, uh, thirsty...the engine is in good condition and it's only done 63000 miles, so I'm just curious really if a petrol engine tends to burn fuel quicker than a diesel one?
That, does not surprise me in the slightest....
I knew as soon as I pressed "post Reply"
Thanks and have been warned about the timing belt etc..........not cheap !!
Nope, not frigging cheap at all. I discovered ALL of the belts connected to the crankshaft on my Focus had been sheared off, would have cost me £200 for the parts and labour, since when the belts went they damaged the screen-washer connectors AND the driveshaft as well (somehow).
Depends where you go for the car, really, but if it's second hand the dealer will often replace the timing belt and sort out any other issues before you buy it, at no additional cost.
Right I will try and be brief......
1. Do your home work on faults etc and if you use a local garage ask their advise as they will be the people looking after it for you.
2. If you buy privately beware of "Rogue" traders masquerading as private individuals. When you find a car of interest always ask "Is the car still for sale?" If the reply is "which one" put the phone down. If you do call a private seller they tend to be a little nervous or apprehensive but want to show the car in the best light. Thats a natural reaction as its something they dont normally do.
3. Ask about service history, how long have they had the car, has the cam belt been done and how many keys do they have with the car. (Replacement keys and cambelts are very expensive so if the answer is no bear that factor in before making an offer or even seeing the car.
4. Check the V5 document for how many owners and make sure the car is in their name. If you get the story that the cars too big or too fast dor the Mrs etc alarm bells should ring as the car might have an underlying fault and they want to get rid. Cars with an owner for over 2-3 years tends to be good bet. Just ask them why they are selling it. If they um and err again this might be due to a fault on the car they do not wish to address.
5. Meet the seller at a private address not a pub carpark etc as you have a comeback if you get any problems. If you meet at a house and they dont invite you in and it looks like no one is in ask to use the toilet!
6. Turning up to see a car thats either sat running on the drive just walk away this usually means its hard to start, sounds like a bag of nails when cold or the battery is knackered.
7 .A clean car is good much better than a filthy one as it gives an indication its been looked after but in the same sense if its been valeted within an inch of its life ask yourself why?
8. Takesome one who knows about cars and go on a test drive for at least ten mins just to get the feel and keep the radio off and heater on number 1 (these running in the background stop certain noises coming to your attention!)
9. When you arrive back check for any oil around the engine or any strange smells such as burning oil, antifreeze or binding brakes or clutch etc. And press every button in the car to check they work!
10. Dont insult the buyer on their price, make a sensible offer as a very low bid will antagonise the seller and lessen the chance of them being reasonable.
11. Before you buy the car pay for a HPI check to make sure its not stolen, been written off or have any outstanding finance.
12. Try not to view cars in the rain as its wonderfull for hiding scatches and minor dings and avoid under lights at garage forecourts at night too the same principle applies. Also feel the carpets for dampness or if all the windows are steamed up when you come to see the car could indicate water ingress in the car which is a real pain to cure and will develop in to a mouldy interior that sometimes will never be eradicated.
Check for accident damage in the boot area and any misaligned panels or panles out a shade or two to the next one meaning its been in an accident. An honest owner will tell you if they had a minor bump without having anything to hide when asked.
13. Finally if you like the car do try to bring someone who has some mechanical knowledge as 4 eyes are better than two and check the service history thoroughly and before you buy the car just go online to motinfo.gov and check the Mot history on the car to see that its not a horror story of faults or there are any advisories from the last Mot that will need addressing in the next few months.
Hope this is just a little help.
Never understood why people don't HPI check.
Always see the "bought this cash but it has 5k debt against it"
Thanks that me out of business ..
Can I add ..don't just take a stamped service book as evidence of service ..anyone can knock a stamp up,there should be corresponding paperwork or a printout from the garage as well ..
By the way if anyone wants their service book stamping I offer a ........
Thank you....some great tips.
If you need any help just ask I'm willing to come and take a butchers or even give you the nod on a car you see advertised too. An ad can tell a story to a trained eye.
I also have a wealth of experience with car problems and know plenty of people who can Mot or service your car who collect and quote before doing any work needed.
Can they clean them up if they have dead bodies in?
Yep, a couple of air fresheners under the front seats and throw a cheap bottle of aftershave all over the interior covers the smell of rotting blood. When you sell a car with knackered boot struts that keep the boot lid open just hold the boot up whilst the potential buyer has a rummage around the boot trying to check the spare wheel thats as bold as a coot on one side but tightly bolted down so they cant lift it to see.
First time they go to put something in the boot they lean in and WHACK! the boot lid falls on the back of their head and the boot lid catch has left a 3" cut for good measure!
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